Anthony
Reviewed in the United States on March 3, 2025
Bolts are painted over and do not fit if you try to tighten them they snap, for 35$ I shouldn’t need to buy hardware
Aaron A.
Reviewed in the United States on December 20, 2020
Worked great on my 2000 Silverado 5.3! This part is a life saver, great design, saves a ton of work and money by fixing exhaust leaks without removing manifolds or heads! I will warn that it is a complete pain to install! You have to use a 14mm or 9/16 ratchet wrench with a pivot!!! It took me 4 hours to get the bolts in the back of the head by myself, it helps if you loosen the heat shield on the firewall, with a lot of patience I was able to get the top bolt in first with the pivoting ratchet wrench, and then the bottom bolt from under the truck!
luis velasco
Reviewed in the United States on May 2, 2019
It would be value for the money but In my situation it didn't work I think I drove on the gasket for too long I did notes a sound reduction but still here the gas leak out when you cold started it othere that no comply with it it looks like its very well made.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on June 5, 2018
Not gonna lie, this one takes some time to get in, but is worth it for sure. Took me about an hour and ended up having to remove the font u-joint bolts and lower the front part of the front drive shaft to get the lower bolt in on the back side of the motor. If I would have done this to begin with, i probably could have saved another 20 minutes of struggling, lol. Exhaust is nice and quiet now. These brackets are really thick and high quality. Had already taken the truck to a reputable muffler shop and they said all they could do was remove the head and drill out the old bolt. This was easily 10 times cheaper than their estimate.
Huckster79
Reviewed in the United States on May 5, 2018
Appears to be working as described! One big hint... takes some plan ahead time but saves time once started. Mine was on an 04 suburban used on drivers rear with the notorious hard to get to bolt holes on this bracket. After fighting the "easy" one to grab bolt hole for some time before success i had idea for the harder lower one: I threaded a nut on the bolt and tapered the tip of the mounting bolt a lil bit with my dremel and took the nut off to clean the threads then i siliconed the bolt into a ratcheting box wrench and let the silicone set up a bit. That silicone held bolt in the wrench so i didnt drop it a hundred times while blindly hunting the hole, the slight taper guieded it right in, no drama.... still took a bit to turn in as had to hold bolt head against the ratchet action most of way in but far less frustrating with not dropping it over n over trying to thread it in blind..
Claire Dodelin
Reviewed in the United States on November 5, 2018
I received A Dorman part with APDTY sticker over the Dorman logo.1. REMOVE THE SMALL FIREWALL HEAT SHIELD FROM THE UNDERSIDE. Three studs with 10 mm nuts, one is directly under the steering column. Pull it straight down and rearward, against the exhaust pipe. Not necessary to completely pull it out.2. Put a step stool in front of truck and lie down over the engine. You can get your left hand and right hand in there enough to get the top bolt in the top cylinder head hole. Run it down as far as you can with your fingers but not tight yet.3. Climb under the truck. Position yourself on your back with your feet toward the rear. Hold the lower bolt like a cigarette in your left hand. reach up and find the lower bracket hole, then move the bracket and bolt around until the bolt finds the cylinder head hole. Even with big hands you can run it down. Tighten everything with a GearWrench 14mm or whatever you have.Can be done in 15 minutes if you don't get frustrated. Nice, heavy duty part.
Tyrone
Reviewed in the United States on October 11, 2018
I can’t say enough about this part. Definitely a huge money saver. Probably saved me about $1000. HOWEVER, as everyone says, it is a complete pain to install. I would suggest having a second person help you. I installed it on the left rear of a 01 GMC Yukon. Before you start, screw the bolt in that seals the manifold. It’ll save you time in the end. Start from the bottom and have your helper hold it from the top. The part is very heavy and it’s impossible to hold and screw in with the tight area. Use your left arm to go in through the bottom of the wheel well. Then squeeze both arms up and completely tighten once it’s started. The top just takes a little patience, but goes in pretty easy. Once both are in, tighten using a ratcheting wrench. I tried doing it alone and after about 2+ hrs, tons of sweat and lots of cursing, I still couldn’t get it. However, after having my friend hold it, I had it completely installed in less than 30 min. I hope this helps and good luck.
D. A. Black
Reviewed in the United States on August 16, 2016
i still haven't figured out how to install this clamp.. the clearance between the rear of the driver's side head and the firewall is extremely tight. my hands are too big to work effectively, and i'm not sure i will be able to get the bolt in position without some sort of extreme wizardry. i even removed the fender liner and tried to go in from the side. no dice, it's just too tight.this would work brilliantly if my leak was on the front of the passenger's side head, but that's not my kind of luck :)next i'll try to see if my 10 year old son's smaller hands can get back there to work, and i may try a bolt that's a little bit shorter. be prepared for a frustrating and challenging installation, but if it works as good as the APDTY 028253 clamp i used on the other side then it will all be worth it.