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Powtol 498298 Carburetor for Briggs and Stratton 495426 135202 135200 130200 112200 5HP Small Engine 495951 492611 490533 692784

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$18.99

$ 7 .99 $7.99

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About this item

  • For Brigg 5HP Carburetor, Replace 498298 495951. This assembly includes a metal body carburetor and two (2) composite material gaskets.
  • For Briggs & Stratton 498298 Carburetor, Fits for 1134-0 Generator, 135202 135200 130200 112200 Small Engine.
  • For Briggs and Stratton 5 HP Carburetor, Fits for Toro 62923 92924 Blower Vacuum.
  • For Briggs 135202 Carburetor, Fits for Craftsman 521244711 521244712 521244913 521244930 521244950 Yard Vacuum, 917295554 917295852 Tiller.
  • [All-In-One Kit]: Briggs 135202 parts save time and reduce costs on solo buys.
  • [Ready To Run Out Of The Box]: Optimized calibration for easy use.
  • [Engine Reliability You Can Trust]: Every 498298 carburetor is rigorously tested with wet flow to parallel real engine conditions.
  • [Constructed From Superior-Grade Materials]: Endures heat, corrosion, and wear by utilizing brass components, and anodized aluminum carburetor body.
  • Dimensions For 498298 Carburetor: Throttle Side Mounting Hole Distance(Center to Center): 45mm, Choke Side Mounting Hole Distance(Center to Center): 39mm, Throttle Diameter:19mm, Choke Diameter: 27.5mm, Venturi Diameter:15mm, Fuel Inlet Line Size:5mm.
  • [Package Include] Powtol 498298 carburetor x1, 491588s air filter x1, fuel filter x1, spark plug x1, gasket x2.



Product Description

Powtol 498298 Carburetor for 135200 112200 130200 Small Engine BS 5HP Engine

briggs and stratton 5hp carburetor
briggs 5hp carburetor
498298
135202
5hp briggs and stratton carburetor

498298 Carburetor Fits for

Used on BS 35200 112200 130200 Small Engine; 1134-0 Generator
Used onCub Cadet 381 (218-381100) (1988) Engine 430 (218-430100) (1988) Engine 390 (212-390-100) (1992) Engine 430 (212-430-100) (1992) Engine 650 (249-650-100) (1989) Engine 685 (249-685-100) (1989) Engine 650 (240-650100) (1990) Engine 685 (240-685100) (1990) Engine 381 (219-381-100) (1989) Engine 430 (219-430-100) (1989) Engine 381 (210-381100) (1990) Engine 430 (210-430100) (1990) Engine 381 (211-381100) (1991) Engine 430 (211-430100) (1991) Engine 645 (242-645-100) (1992) Engine
Used onCub Cadet 685 (242-685-100) (1992) Engine A645 (242A645-100) (1992) Engine 685 (241-685100) (1991) Engine 645C243 (243-645C100) (1993) Engine 685243 (243-685-100) (1993) Engine 340 (215-340-100) (1995) Engine 440 (215-440-100) (1995) Engine 522LS (245-631-100) (1995) Engine 645D (244-645C100) (1995) Engine 685 (244-685-100) (1995) Engine 340 (216-340-100) (1996) Engine 440 (216-440-100) (1996) Engine 522LS (246-631-100) (1996) Engine 645D (246-645C100) (1996) Engine 685 (246-685-100) (1996) Engine
Used onCub Cadet 340213 (213-340-100) (1993) Engine 430213 (213-430-100) (1993) Engine 340 (21A-340-100) (1997) Engine 340214 (214-340-100) (1994) Engine 440214 (214-440-100) (1994) Engine 685244 (244-685-100) (1994) Engine 645C244 (244-645C100) (1994) Engine FT50 (21A-340-100) (1998) Engine
Used on Craftsman 521244711 Yard Vacuum 521244712 Yard Vacuum 521244913 Yard Vacuum 521244930 Yard Vacuum 521244950 Yard Vacuum 917295554 Tiller 917295852 Tiller

Customer
Reviewed in the United States on May 16, 2025
I got this carb because the one for the edger I have is no longer available ,unless old stock $ 150 + B&S.. With a few minior changes it fit great and started on second pull. I needed a B&S #499492 carb,the changes I made to make this carb fit were cutting and fitting the tank tube . I cut 3/8s off the brass exstention part , a 1/4" off plasticscreen tube and then reamed it with 13/64s drill bit so it would slide down the brass. then just use your old linkage.
Sandi
Reviewed in the United States on February 12, 2025
fast shipping. accurate description. we are in working order again
james s.
Reviewed in the United States on September 19, 2024
I found myself in need of a tiller, i then priced them... Needless to say I decided to try and get one my dad had in his shed from the early 90's. A briggs 3.75 front tine tiller. Of course the carb was toast. This carb was pretty much a exact match except for the fuel pickup being 1/2 too long for the tank. I was able to shorten it and now it runs like a scalded dog. Saved me hundreds!
Dunedude
Reviewed in the United States on June 22, 2024
I read the reviews before installing and pulled the side cover off and checked the diaphragm . Sure enough it was cut like one review reported. The cap has to be sanded flat because the raise sealing area on it cut the diaphragm. I had a new one to replace it and I sanded the cap flat on some sand paper so it wouldn’t cut the new one I put in it. Other than that it works great and runs good. I’m glad I checked that before installing! It save me some time!
Preston H.
Reviewed in the United States on May 18, 2024
We had an old 5hp Craftsman rototiller with a crusty fuel system. This carb is a pretty accurate knockoff of the original. Just had to move the choke linkages over from the old carb. All the bosses, and threaded holes are ready with the exception of the governor return spring bracket. As others have mentioned, the hole is there but (oddly) it's not threaded. It requires (if I recall correctly) a #6-32 tap and the bracket can be attached. Nevertheless, after a thorough cleaning of the metal fuel tank it now starts easily and runs like it should. With the included gaskets, air filter, and spark plug, this is a good value for the money - so far.
michael
Reviewed in the United States on October 19, 2024
Better than new excellent price with all the essentials
Not a carb guy
Reviewed in the United States on April 9, 2022
Saw a free tiller in the neighborhood with a sign saying that it needs carb work. 5HP craftsman with a Briggs and Stratton engine. Watched a YouTube video on how to remove and install another one and figured I could handle it. Went online, saw this carb with both exhaust and fuel tank gaskets, air filter, and spark plug and figured $30 bucks was worth trying. I did the replacement, sprayed a little starter fluid in the carb, gave it one pull and it ran for a few seconds. I finished putting the filter on and added some gas and it fired right up again and I ran it for a few minutes before deciding it was fixed. I was very slow and methodical but I think it took me an hour. Nothing was complicated about the process but here are my helpful must do hints, if you care about hints:1. Take close up pictures of how the old carb is installed. Make sure you capture exactly where each linkage arm connects and in which hole (as applicable).2. You may have to use some of the parts off the old carb so don't destroy or throw them out. My throttle linkage was too long on the new one so I just used the old one, no big deal.3. My fuel tank was full of very old gas and it had a lot of rust. Pour out the old gas, get some carb cleaner and spray a ton in the tank, add a large handful of SMALL nuts, washers, pea rock, and shake that can like you mean it for a few minutes. Dump all the loose rust and nuts out. To clean the crap out, I then added about a cup of gas, shook it up to rinse it, and dumped it. I did this three times until I could not see any more debris. Also, since the carb attaches to the tank, the float bowl is actually where the carb picks up the fuel so make sure that little bowl is clean too. You will see this as you look into the can where the carb mounts. Bottom line, you're doing all this work, might as well clean it up so the carb does not get clogged. Note: I would have replaced the tank but they are $70-$100 and so I opted for the Shake and Pray cleaning method.4. Be very gentle as you are installing the carb on the tank, the long pick-up tube will go in but it is fragile so don't force it.5. There is a spring under the fuel tank on the other side of the bolt that holds the tank in place. Make sure you pay attention to how it is installed BEFORE you take the tank off and that it is INSTALLED before you bolt everything back together.6. Do not forget to connect the tube coming off the carb to the rubber grommet on the engine by the exhaust. If you do forget, you will have to unbolt everything to do this later and it is a pain. You want to connect it at the same time that you are putting the tank in place to bolt it.7. Take pictures.8. Reference your pictures when you are installing your new carb.Hope this helps, not a hard job at all, just pay attention.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on October 13, 2020
I used this to replace the carburetor on my Briggs & Stratton 5HP engine for my wood chipper; it runs great now.One note: one of the screws is not the same size as the OEM carburetor. You can see in the attached picture which one I'm talking about. The OEM carburetor had a #10-24, and this one had a #8-32. A quick trip to the hardware store and it works just fine.Also, the spark plug is physically much larger than the OEM plug that I replaced. I was a little bit concerned but I decided to give it a shot anyway and it is working just fine.I ordered another one for my rototiller, see if I can get that thing running a little bit more smoothly too. You just can't beat the price...Update: after running this thing for a dozen hours or so, I also see the small fuel leak coming out the end that's been mentioned by others. It's small enough that I don't care since this was so cheap. :)I also replaced the carburetor on my rototiller, and it seems to be working like a champ but it won't get much real use until next spring.
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